Tête-à-tête – with Emma Persson

Hello Emma! Tell us about yourself.
I come from Norrköping and attended a music class in junior high school. My initial plan was to become a musician, but I had an inspiring home economics teacher and a mother who prepared exceptionally delicious food. This prompted me to apply for the hotel and restaurant program, specializing in culinary arts. I had a mentor who had studied at Grythyttan, and ultimately, I found myself pursuing my education there. I trained as a culinary chef and meal creator, dedicating a total of six years to my chef's education.

I find working in restaurants to be the most fulfilling profession. When I am not here, I essentially engage in similar activities – spending time with friends, enjoying excellent food and drinks, and attending concerts.

Tell us about your journey to Operakällaren?
I moved to Stockholm but continued working in Norrköping for a period. In 2019, I began as a chef at TAK, but the position was eliminated with the onset of the pandemic. After some time at Astoria, I noticed that Daniel Höglander was seeking female chefs for Aloë, and I felt compelled to apply. I started as a sous chef, but gradually moved more towards the dining room and front-of-house responsibilities. At Aloë, titles were never the main focus, but my last role there was as general manager. Following that, I joined Operakällaren.

You are a team that has worked together for a long time and shares an unusually strong bond. What do you attribute this to?
Indeed, we truly possess a unique team spirit, perhaps even a family-like atmosphere. We have strived together, often with limited financial means but driven by immense passion. We have consistently encouraged each other to improve daily. We have supported one another through all situations – sharing hugs, tears, and celebrations. When so much is shared, a profoundly strong connection is forged.

What does the role of restaurant manager entail in practice?
I often describe the role as a combination of a conductor, a firefighter, a psychologist, and an Excel strategist. The primary objective is to unify the dining room team, orchestrate the service flow, and ensure that we uphold the same high standards every evening. I am responsible for scheduling, operational structure, and the entire service journey – from the moment a guest enters to their final departure.

How would you describe your leadership style?
I tend to be quite direct. We operate at a very high standard where even the smallest details are crucial, and it is my responsibility to ensure this level is consistently upheld. This sometimes requires me to be very firm. It is important to me that we work collaboratively as a team and continuously move forward. I do not believe in making all decisions myself. My leadership aims to be inclusive, allowing us to collectively shape the dining room and the guest experience. Everyone should feel empowered to contribute ideas on how we can further enhance and elevate our services.

What is most important when you hire someone?
Personality – and the ability to integrate effectively into our team. While the technical aspects of the profession can be learned, a positive attitude, humility, and passion must be inherent from the start. A genuine drive, a keen eye for detail, and the willingness to contribute to the overall success are paramount.

What does a truly successful service feel like?
It's when we have ample time to engage with our guests. When I step behind the scenes and see my colleagues smiling, feeling that vibrant energy. It's when the synergy between the kitchen and dining room is perfect, and that positive atmosphere extends to our guests. A bustling dining room, lively conversation, and constant, graceful movement. We often say that when it feels like we are dancing, everything is precisely as it should be.

What is the greatest challenge – and the greatest reward?
The greatest challenge lies in working with people. While one can prepare for every eventuality, something unexpected always arises – an unannounced allergy, or a situation requiring immediate resolution. The ultimate reward is our guests. It's when a party contacts us the following day to express their appreciation for a wonderful experience. And perhaps most importantly – it's witnessing the team grow stronger after a particularly demanding service. When we recognize that we have collectively advanced, it fuels our anticipation for an even better evening ahead.

Which details are crucial to the guest's experience?
Firstly, the welcome is paramount. Subsequently, guests enter the dining room, which often proves to be a striking experience, particularly for first-time visitors. Guests need a moment to fully absorb the magnificent ambiance. Then, the sommelier team introduces the evening, and guests might commence with champagne. When the kitchen presents the first warm broth and snacks are served, almost like a small explosion of flavor, that's when a truly special moment unfolds.

Operakällaren has undergone some changes in recent years. Please elaborate.
We have become more open – both literally and in our approach. The grand marble table has become an integral part of the dining room, music has been given a more prominent role, and we have consciously worked to eliminate any elements that previously felt rigid. The interaction with our guests is now more personal. Here, individuals should feel free to be themselves and completely at ease within an environment that simultaneously carries over a century of history.

What characterizes truly excellent hospitality at the highest level?
It is about recognizing each guest and being highly attentive. Some prefer gentle guidance, while others prefer to be fully directed. It means being personal without being intrusive. It involves reading the room and acting appropriately at the right moment – sometimes this calls for grand gestures, but more often, it is about subtle details.

How do you know when a guest has truly relaxed?
One senses it in the overall ambiance of the room, in the lively chatter, and in the palpable energy.

How has your journey from the kitchen to the dining room shaped you?
Above all, it has provided me with a comprehensive understanding. I am fluent in both the intricacies of service operations and the intense rhythm of the kitchen, and this has fundamentally shaped both me and my career.
I have worked in the kitchen where order tickets are ceaseless and every second counts, where quality must be maintained amidst a brutal pace. And I have been in the dining room, where the energy is almost electric, where guests' expectations are palpable, and where everything ultimately hinges on timing, presence, and intuition.
I perceive two distinct worlds, yet I also recognize their profound interconnectedness. I understand the frustrations from both sides, but also the magic that arises when everything aligns perfectly. This experience has instilled in me humility towards both perspectives and a keen awareness of how crucial the synergy between the kitchen and dining room truly is.

Do you have any rituals before service?
We share staff meals, conduct a briefing, and then, with a shout of "Bon service!" and a round of applause, we begin!

When you are not here – where can one find you?
At concerts or restaurants. Also, with my family in Östergötland, or relaxing on the sofa with my cats, Humlan and Milla. Otherwise, I enjoy socializing with friends, and currently, I am dedicating a significant amount of time to decorating my new apartment.

Tell us something surprising about yourself?
I am quite proficient at playing the clarinet, which is often unexpected by many.

If you were not working in the restaurant industry – what would you be doing then?
I would likely have pursued a career as a police officer, working on the streets.

What stresses you most during service?
It is particularly stressful if the setup is not entirely complete on time, and small details are being finalized at the very last second. This can create a sense of urgency and breathlessness as the first guests arrive. However, aside from such instances, I generally maintain a calm demeanor during service.

What time of day do you love the most?
It is when we commence service; that brings a wonderful feeling. If I am not here, it is during the sunny hours when one can be outdoors and truly enjoy the moment.

What do you want guests to take with them when they leave?
I want them to have savored food with distinct, vibrant flavors and to have been cared for by staff who genuinely love what they do. A service that feels authentic and attentive. I want them to depart with a smile on their faces, carrying the feeling that it was more than just a dinner – that it was, in fact, a memorable experience.

What do you hope your team feels after an evening?
That it was enjoyable. That they are proud. That they feel they have accomplished something good – and that they have been acknowledged for it.

What has your profession taught you about people?
Adaptability, above all. To be able to meet different guests, as well as different colleagues, where they are. I have also learned that energy is contagious. And that regardless of background or familiarity with restaurants, people immediately notice if the interaction is genuine. Authenticity cannot be faked.

When do you feel most in your element here at the restaurant?
When I move around the marble table, lap after lap, ensuring that all guests are comfortable and that everything is proceeding at the right pace.

What do you need to feel balanced in everyday life?
I love it here so much that I rarely want to be away. But to feel balanced, I need music. Yesterday was a perfect example of what that can look like: first I worked, then I rushed into a taxi to make it to my other great interest in life – concerts. I must experience music; otherwise, I don't function. I need to be in a crowd at a concert as often as possible.

If you could take one thing home from Operakällaren?
The DNA trolley. The silver trolley where everything important to us is kept.