A conversation where we meet one of the key individuals who make Operahuset what it is. A person who plays a vital role in Operahuset's story and contributes to the experiences, hospitality, and inclusive gastronomy. Together, we continue to create memorable moments – one dinner, one celebration, and one experience at a time.
This time, we meet Pernilla Lundberg, Head Pastry Chef.
Hello Pernilla! Tell us about your background.
I have worked in the restaurant industry my entire life – in hot kitchens, cold kitchens, and with desserts. I come from Småland, moved to Borgholm where I worked with Karin Fransson, and eventually ended up in Stockholm. Here, I have worked at places such as Bon Lloc when they had a star, at KB, Berns, Sturehof, Riche, and Teatergrillen. I had long dreamed of Operakällaren – and in 2019, I found myself here. They needed help for the Christmas buffet, and I stayed!
What first drew you to the restaurant profession?
It likely came quite naturally. I find working with food and beverages incredibly enjoyable – it is truly my passion. I even plan my travels around experiencing restaurants.
Could you tell us which parts of the establishment the patisserie team works with?
We are a single unit that serves the entire establishment. For Operakällaren, we prepare everything from bread to desserts and mignardises, Petit Choux, and tartlets. For Bakfickan and Operabaren, we supply bread, ice cream, truffles, and Oscar cakes. For parties and events, we handle all aspects of bread, desserts, breakfast, and conference refreshments.
How do you approach developing and designing desserts for Operakällaren, and how does that process differ from your work for the banquet hall and larger events?
For Operakällaren, Emanuel and Jesper create the menus, and we handle the production. We prepare everything ourselves, but Emanuel is responsible for the menu concept. In the banquet hall, we now work almost exclusively with a sharing concept – often with desserts served per table. For example, it might be a Glass au four per table, which I find incredibly enjoyable to create.
What does a typical workday look like for your patisserie team?
We start at 7:30 AM and review the day's schedule and all memos. Then we begin preparing baguettes and rye bread for Operabaren and brioches for Operakällaren. Following that, we divide the mise en place list among ourselves.
How do you organize the work within your team?
We are five people in total. Norah works with Operakällaren and starts at 3 PM daily – she is responsible for serving the desserts and arranging the mignardise trolley. Lisa is very skilled at making pralines, so that is her area of responsibility, but we all contribute to their taste and appearance. The rest of us share tasks quite extensively. Previously, roles were more divided, but now we work more collaboratively – everyone does everything, and it is incredibly enjoyable!
Is there any ingredient you never tire of working with?
Vanilla! We use enormous quantities of vanilla in this establishment! Emanuel considers it a flavor enhancer, so it is included in almost everything we create.
Do you have a favorite dessert?
I love making ice cream – my favorite is pistachio ice cream. When I enjoy dessert myself, I appreciate classics such as Crème Caramel, Tarte Tatin, or a well-made tiramisu.
You are also the establishment's herring master – please tell us about that!
I worked for many years at Sturehof, where we pickled enormous quantities of herring, so it's a skill that has stayed with me. Among the offerings on this year's Christmas buffet is Stenborgarsillen – a creamy herring with bitter orange, cumin, and other spices, where we also incorporate the spirits from the brine. We have just developed a herring flavored with Pastis and Vadouvan, which is a French curry with a magical aroma.
The Christmas buffet is in full swing – what does the dessert table look like this year?
It is brimming with delights! Homemade sweets such as fudge, chocolate toffee, and browned butter brownies, soft gingerbread with lingonberries, our own version of almond tarts, cheesecake, truffles, small cookies, jam tarts with saffron, and homemade toffee.
Is there a dessert you dream of creating but haven't yet found the right form for?
Emanuel has long dreamed of a meringue swan – and we have started working on it. It just needs a little more work before it is exactly as we envision it!
What feeling do you believe a truly memorable dessert should evoke in a guest?
It should provide a pleasant conclusion to the meal – not too heavy, with a delicate freshness.
If you weren't working in the restaurant industry – what do you think you would be doing instead?
A photographer! Preferably with a focus on food photography and styling.
Is there a scent or taste that transports you back to childhood?
Kroppkakor (potato dumplings). I love them – with lingonberries, butter, and cream. And then there's Grandma's blueberry pie with vanilla sauce – its aroma always makes me think of her.
What is your favorite restaurant?
I have several… Restaurang Bord, Bar Nîmes, Ett Hem – and Triton in Söder.
How do you relax when you're not working?
I enjoy traveling to Italy in the winter to ski. Otherwise, I spend time in nature, pick mushrooms, socialize with my boyfriend, cook, or go out to eat.
If you could take one thing home from Operahuset – what would it be?
A very expensive champagne or the duck press that is in the dining room.
Which song would be the soundtrack to your life?
“Level up” by Veronica Maggio.
If your life were a cocktail – which one would it be, and why?
All or Nothing. It is so incredibly delicious that it is indescribable – and it also has a history connected to the establishment.
Why is it so enjoyable to work here?
It's the pace, the energy, and the atmosphere. Something is always happening here, and I love being in an environment where the passion for food and craftsmanship permeates everything. There is so much dedication in this establishment!
